Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton

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衝浪潮人 Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton

Rory Kennedy／2017／US／118min／English／Chinese subtitles / Taiwan premier

This bio-doc tracks the remarkable life and legendary career of big wave surfer and oddball athlete Laird Hamilton. Probably more than any other individual, Laird has shaped the sport of surfing as it exists today, and yet he did it as a complete amateur, never entering a surf competition because he can’t stand to be judged. Yet Laird’s list of “firsts” in the surfing world is beyond compare. He was among the first to ride several of the biggest waves in the world, including Jaws in Hawaii and Teahupoo in Tahiti. He helped pioneer tow-in surfing (using jet skis to tow into huge waves), brought innovations like foot straps from windsurfing to surfboards, and pushed the advent of hydrofoil surfing, which allows surfers to ride waves in the open ocean. He has paddled across the English Channel, just for fun. He is one of the two most famous surfers alive, but is a rugged individual who has only ever played by his own rules. Take Every Wave provides an intimate, uncompromising look at Laird, a lifetime devoted to riding giant surf, and the price an athlete pays for greatness.